Harriman State Park

"Beware: Bear Frequenting Area" the sign read.


That definitely caught my eye when I entered the Harriman State Park in Island Park, Idaho this morning by mountain bike. However, sighting a bear was not my goal, I wanted to see a moose. I pedaled up, down, and around the beautiful state park for over two and a half hours - not a moose I found. However, I was not disappointed. The natural beauty of Harriman State Park and the peaceful solidarity I found while riding the park's 20+ miles of trails was more than a pleasant surprise.


For only being 11,000 acres and next door to Yellowstone, arguably the United States' greatest national park, Harriman State Park has a lot to offer (its actually part of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem). The Henry's Fork river meanders through the park, two lakes make for beautiful bird watching, and trails for hiking, horseback riding, and biking, are plentiful. The park is well-kept: trails are well-cut but still natural, no trash, no "graffiti", and best of all --- motorized roads are limited thus motorized homes do not find a way to block beautiful views.


Given its proximity to Yellowstone, many most likely drive right past Harriman. Fine by me. Probably Harriman's greatest treasure is the quiet. In my two and a half hours in the park, I saw maybe ten people. And that was only around the main parking lots and central destinations. Once on the 4 mile bike path to Golden Lake, I didn't see a sole... and luckily not a bear.


Harriman also has a unique history as a cattle ranch, which seems to still be working, and was owned by the Union Pacific Railroad investors. The railroad ranch buildings, old ranch barns, and original cabins are still in existence. Cabins can be rented for overnight stays --- camping in tents is not allowed.


Finally, riding through the park, watching the fly fishermen working the day's hatch and trumpeter swans gliding above Golden Lake is made even better by the beautiful view of the Tetons in the distance.


A Bit of History (Not Written by Me)


The Railroad Ranch In 1902, several officials of the Oregon Shortline Railroad and other investors purchased what is now Harriman State Park. Called the Railroad Ranch, the property was the private retreat of the Harrimans of Union Pacific Railroad fame and the Guggenheims, then prominent in copper.



The rich wildlife habitat has been preserved since the turn of the century when the owners established a private hunting reserve and working cattle ranch. For 75 years, the ranch maintained healthy game, waterfowl and fish populations, allowing todays park visitors to observe a rare concentration of wildlife in its scenic, natural surrounding.



Twenty-seven of the original Railroad Ranch buildings, from the cookhouse to the horse barn, are still intact, furnished and carefully maintained.



Overnight Stays



Although camping is not available, the group facility is open year-round. It is perfect for overnight church outings, family reunions and ski weekends with friends. If you're looking for a little more privacy for your small group, how about renting the original Ranch Manager's House?



This four-bedroom log home has a modern kitchen, a rustic knotty-pine living room with a stone fireplace and a screened sun porch. It is fully furnished and rents for $150 per night. There is a non-refundable $25 reservation fee. Call 208-558-7368 to reserve the group facility or Ranch Manager's House.



Activities



During the summer there are regular tours of the Railroad Ranch buildings. Fishing, hiking, horseback riding and mountain biking are other ways to experience the beauty of the area. Dont forget to bring your camera. There are breath-taking wildflower displays in the sage meadows and pastureland which dominate the landscape.



Visitors often see elk, deer and moose, particularly in the morning and evening. The views of the Tetons are spectacular. When winter comes, grab your cross-country skis. You can ski to the warming houseopen on weekendsand look out over the Henrys Fork to watch bald eagles and trumpeter swans.



Henry's Fork



Meandering nine miles through park meadows and forests, the Henrys Fork of the Snake River flows gently year-round, because of warm springs in the area. One third of the Rocky Mountain trumpeter swan population winters here. Trumpeter swans are the largest of North American waterfowl and the worlds heaviest flying bird. The fly fishing on this stream is world famous.


Read More Here:
http://www.stateparks.com/harriman.html

Park City, Utah

July 3rd and 4th, 2009

After two days on a river, and too many hours on the road, arriving to Park City was a well-earned (relative to our situation, not the world) comfort. Neither my father nor I had ever been to Park City, Utah before but we had both heard and read great things.

Park City is definitely cool, but definitely a bit cut and dried: not quite as beautiful as Jackson Hole or Aspen, and not nearly as diverse and eccentric as Santa Fe or Taos. The population is definitely a cast of characters: bikers, hippies, fishermen, rich bankers, and struggling artists; but there is little diversity of ethnicity and backgrounds.

The city itself is very cute. Snuggled in between mountains, the main street runs along a fairly steep hill lined with the typical Western galleries, funky furniture shops, cowboy clothiers, and a variety of restaurants. As my dad might put it, a more "evolved Americana."

The highlights of our stay in Park City:

1) The Seared Chili Duck with Green Chili Macaroni at Purple Sage. Wow. http://www.purplesageparkcity.com/

2) The 4th of July Parade and Party at the Park. Park City really lights up for the Fourth. A fun parade makes it way down main street towards the Park where local bands, hippy dancers, and BBQ masters set the mood for a great day in the sun to celebrate our country's Independence.

3) Great Live Music and a fun bar scene --- the margaritas at the Spur were up to snuff. http://www.thespurbarandgrill.com/

My dad bet me a few dollars that I would not dance with this woman.

We took tequila shots with the 1800 "girl" to get shirts and a beanie.

4) Our room and the luxuries of the Sky Lodge. http://www.theskylodge.com/

All in all, this post is short because I don't feel "passionate" about Park City. Now, do not get me wrong, its a fun, beautiful, and entertaining city. We definitely enjoyed ourselves and I would probably go back. However, compared to the rest of our trip, Park City just felt a bit... pedestrian.

Camping on the Gunnison

the campsite and the stove affair

Guest Blog written by Mickey Ashmore Sr (Big Mick)

We arrived at around 4:30 pm. Tired. We had really fished hard. Tonight, we would live on the river: would cook, eat, drink, and sleep as the Gunnison rushed by. To be perfectly straight up, I was never very good at camping. The only thing I did well was purchase the gear. I've always liked the romance of camping, finding the right secluded site, setting up the areas, especially the outdoor kitchen. It just seems that most camping trips ended up with loud children close by, or a hellacious mountain storm that would leave us wet and frightened.

Well, I digress. Let's focus on the campsite at hand. Ben Olson knows the river, he has floated it over 300 times. He suggested a site at the base of a narrow canyon with steep jagged walls looming high overhead. A place only accessible by raft. Yes, just me, Mick
and our gracious guide and river host, Ben, about to set up camp. A place for everything: the tent, the kitchen, the dining area, and the "groover." Rushing rivers rapids providing the background peace. No internet, no blackberry, no television. Just a spot on the river away from it all.

And as Ben prepared dinner I saw it, a portable camping stove like none I had ever seen. A two burner steel and aluminum rectangle box that opened and closed like a briefcase. A patina that only 15 years of use could give it. Yes, I now realize Coleman camp stoves are for the masses.

This portable stove and steel folding stand exhibited simple form and rugged functionality. God it was cool! It is a serious piece of equipment. A Cook Partner made by Partner Steel Company (See www.partnersteel.com). The best in class; the Hasty Bake of camping stoves. Lots of BTU's, heavy duty, light in weight and really beautiful!

Ben prepared dinner: grilled salmon with a fresh "Ben made" mango salsa, steamed broccoli, and pasta with a basil pesto.You knew Ben, so very smooth in his prep, had obviously prepared this meal many times.

Great food by the river calls for great wine. The one luxury I had slipped into my wet/dry bag was a bottle of Chassagne Montrachet 2005 Les Vergers by Domaine Ramonet. Without wine glasses, we all drank from the bottle chilled by the rivers cold. We savored the stony quality and baked apricot and honey mouthfuls.

There we sat, under a tarp with three oars and a tree skillfully rigged by Ben supplying the support. We drank wine, watched the rain, and listened to the river. All the while I kept looking at Partners steel stove thinking about all the salmon cooked by Ben and the people he served. I could not help but wonder if they liked the stove as much as I did.

Fishin' The Gunnison at Black Canyon

July 2, 2009

Guest Blog written by Mickey Ashmore Sr. (Big Mick)

My goals were very simple for this father son road trip to Seattle and to Little Mickey's independence. First, to realize that it is ok to let him pick our restaurants. (Little Mickey's Input: I am better at picking restaurants at this point. Granted, I have technology on my side). Second, hopefully, have my son experience the joy of fly fishing. By all appearences and reputation the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River had the ingredients he should embrace. A one mile hike down into a deep river canyon that relatively few people do each year. An exciting, challenging river with class four rapids. And of course, big brown trout amidst a stone fly hatch.

Our guide, Ben Olson of Black Canyon Anglers, a former semi-pro skateboarder, was a great new friend for Mick. Full of energy, enthusiasm, entertaining small town stories, and nonstop entymology, it was very apparent that Ben had excellent guiding instincts. Ben prepared the raft, making sure everything was strapped down properly and secure. He rigged our fishing rods and placed Mickey in the bow because he was the least experienced fisherman. With me safely and still dry seated at the stern, Ben launched the raft into the gorgeous Gunnison river.

Within minutes, Little Mick was casting the stonefly how and where Ben told him. As I watched, I was given the prideful pleasure of seeing "my son the fisherman". Then, as River Karma would have it on Mick's tenth cast or so a large brown trout flashed, rose, and sipped the stonefly into his mouth, quickly turned. Instinctively, Mick set the hook with a quick tug to the right and the fight to land him began. Ben gave instructions, "Hold the rod tip high, keep the tension, get him on the reel," and Mick followed instructions and landed a twenty inch brown trout.

Mick Jr. now new the beauty, the sport, and the intelligence of fly fishing for trout on western rivers. The picture says it all, "My son the shortstop, the quarterback, the point guard was really becoming my son the fly fisherman."

A view down the canyon from the boat.

The night before: pickin flies and gearing up. Ben advised us that large stone flies were still hatching and the best bet for a good day of fishing.

Our boat: loaded up, strapped down, and ready for the rapids with Ben at the helm.

Lil' Mick landing his 20 inch brown trout.

Another view down the canyon.

Leaning House of West Texas

This dilapidated house along the highway caught my eye. I shot it from both sides. I really enjoy the contrast between land, sky, and structure.

Random Road Trip Photos

Hat and Texas Flag in the Weinzapfel General Store in Windthorst, Texas.

They sell fireworks in the grocery store in Taos. Amazing. I bought plenty.

Texans love cattle, beef, and leather boots. Windthorst, Texas.

Does anyone get this sign?

"Listen or your tongue will make you deaf?"

Taos is full of "interesting people." This woman was reading a collection of gossip magazines around 11 pm in the supermarket. Sitting in a lawn chair under a beach umbrella, she looked up at me smiling and said, "Its just like the beach!"

Sure.

Candy at Allsup's Convenience Store.

A Quick Trip To Lagos

Written on June 21, 2009:

I just got back from infamous Nigeria. After repeated warnings that I should not go (from my mother, the US Government Travel website, everyone in Ghana, and an Italian friend in Accra)… I am not going to lie: I was a bit worried. Would I even make it in the first few hours from the Lagos Airport to my friend’s home in Ikoyi? Multiple people had warned me that the armed robbery was the norm, not the exception. Lagos is very dangerous. People travel in security details and have armed guards. I was told.

“Are you sure you want to fly on Thursday night?” Dinesh, my flight booking agent, asked, placing emphasis on the word “night.”

“Yeah, why not? I have school during the day so I need to leave after 3 pm.” I replied casually.

“We do not recommend traveling at night to Lagos. Many airlines have even stopped nighttime service because foreigners traveling on the road connecting the airport to the city is a major point of armed robbery.” He continued.

Oh Shit. What had I gotten myself into. I imagined a lawless world of streets lined with shady individuals, motorcycle gangs with AK-47s slung over shoulder, and cars burning along the road.
A post apocalyptic world cast in grey and black with flickers of orange from flames and gunfire - think Sin City.

“Let me get back to you,” I told Dinesh as I whipped out my Blackberry and e-mailed Tosin, my Nigerian friend from University who would be hosting me.

His reply: “Don’t worry about it. It isn’t that dangerous. Look, Nigeria is the real Africa - not buttered up for tourism. You will be fine. I promise.” Relieved? A little bit. I kept my night flight. Foolhardy or not, I figured I should get the full experience… armed robbery and all. I hoped Tosin had armored vehicles.

He was right. While definitely more dangerous than your average city, I never felt at risk. I unnecessarily braced myself for the ride from airport to Tosin’s home. He picked me up in a new silver Mercedes Benz (Great, so inconspicuous). We made it home without a hitch… or even a hint of trouble.

Deep down. I figured I would be okay; otherwise, I would not have gone. Safety and danger in foreign countries is often exaggerated. People want to make their stories more enticing, and governments and travel agencies must err on the side of caution.

That said, Nigeria certainly had its differences from Ghana. One of the most apparent: corruption. In terms of bribery, Ghana - 0; Nigeria - 7. In only three days in Nigeria, we were asked for bribes on multiple occasions. Beginning with parking at the airport to numerous roadside checks by police carrying assault rifles to the doormen at every club we visited during a whirlwind tour of Lagos’ nightlife (Thanks to Toby!). However, I found these bribes more humorous and pathetic than intimidating. Calling it a bribe is probably an overstatement, rather it was begging. Rather than putting a gun in my face or creating a fine to request, military officers timidly asked for money with a smile on their face like a homeless man asking for beer change. Even as a foreigner, I was far from convinced.

Other than the bribery, I found Lagos to be very pleasant. Granted, I was staying with a good friend who is fairly well-to-do, so I saw Lagos' finest. The food was splendid, women beautiful, nightlife abundant, and the heat: oppressing.

July 2: Taos to Black Canyon

July 2, On The Road Again...

From Taos, we headed West along the northern border of New Mexico to Chama.

One very interesting aspect of travel immediately outside of Taos is the "Earthship Biotecture Community." Although we did not opt for the tour, it looks like an interesting place --- straight out of a movie set. Several miles deep and along the highway out of Taos, the landscape is dotted with eco-friendly homes that are built into the ground and out of recycled materials. Very sustainable.

www.Earthship.org. Earthship is a planned community of completely sustainable homes, built entirely from recycled materials, as designed by Michael Reynolds. The idea has caught on and EarthShips are built all over the world, but Taos has the largest community of the unique homes.
--------------

We were anticipating an amazing New Mexican meal in Chama at Viva Vera’s Mexican Kitchen. My father and mother had been there several times on previous road trips and I had even been there once as a kid. Even though he had an upset stomach, and spicy Mexican food was far from the doctor’s orders, my dad had been raving about the food the whole ride and we couldn’t wait. Much to our disappointment; however, Vera’s had closed. We later found out that Vera had passed away and her family could not keep the restaurant afloat without her. She was well-known for her cooking not only by my parents, but across the region. Certainly a loss for New Mexican cuisine.

All was not lost for us however. In typical Two Mickey’s fashion, we scoured Chama for another good taste of New Mexican cuisine. Several locals directed us to Foster’s Hotel Restaurant. For those of you who don’t know, New Mexican cuisine is not typical Mexican food - different even from neighboring Tex-Mex. So, we had to get some. While Tex-Mex and New Mexican share many similarities, the flavors, structure of the food, and names of dishes can differ. Even something as simple as the construction of an enchilada: flattened in New (known as Santa Fe Style), rolled in Tejas. That said, the defining characteristic of New Mexican cuisine, in my opinion, is the use of Green Chilies. Green Chili sauce is made from roasted whole green chilies, while red chili sauce typically uses dried chilies. (A nice article about New Mexican Cuisine:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Mexican_cuisine). At Foster’s, we enjoyed a red chili enchilada, chips & salsa, and a green chili smothered chili relleno. It was damn good.

Foster’s was also a really cool spot - open since the late 1800s, Foster’s served as a hotel, bar and restaurant to feed, shelter and entertain travelers and workers coming into Chama’s rail station along the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad. Today, Foster’s also houses tourists that come to experience the Cumbres and Toltec Railroad (apparently, I was one of these tourists as a kid). And I loved the thrill of a classic train journey through the mountains by way of steam locomotive engine. Touristy, but cool.

- Foster’s Hotel, Restaurant and Saloon. 393 S. Terrace Ave. Chama, NM 87520. (575) 756-2296

- Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. http://www.cumbrestoltec.com/ From the website, “Hidden away in a little-known corner of the southern Rocky Mountains is a precious historic artifact of the American West. Built in 1880 and little changed since, the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad is the most spectacular example of steam era mountain railroading in North America.”

From Chama, we headed North crossing into “Colorful Colorado.” Again, like from Dallas to Taos, we avoided the largest highway and took a much less direct route to Montrose. Our destination was the lodge of Black Canyon Anglers where we were to be fishing and camping in the Black Canyon Gorge on the Gunnison River.

Along the way, we stopped at Corkins Lodge. Why? It was a favorite family vacation destination when I was a kid. Families can rent individual cabins on the grounds, enjoy world-class fishing along the Brazos river (2.5 private miles of river for lodge guests), as well as the amazing mountain views. This place is special, and brought back great memories. http://www.corkinslodge.com/

The drive took about 7 hours, we saw many interesting trains along the way, and we reached the Lodge around 7:15 pm, just in time for dinner and a couple hours of relaxation before bed.

Taos

Our first night of the road trip was spent in Taos, where we used to take many family vacations.

We stayed at the beautifully historic Taos Inn. The hotel is housed in an old adobe building with a wooden beam interior that supports the structure. I checked into room 114 and dropped my bottle of water onto the floor. It rolled left. Over time, the Taos Inn has developed a lean, which only serves to add to the charm and character of the place.

The bar at the Taos Inn, the Adobe Bar, is fantastic. With live music nightly and killer margaritas, not to mention a great ambience on the patio or inside. The Adobe Bar is truly “the social scene” of Taos. My Dad and I shared two margaritas: El Muchote and El Gran Reserva. El Muchote was silver tequilla, hand-squeezed lime juice and organic agave nectar. The nectar gives it a unique, smokey sweet flavor (almost a maple syrup taste). El Gran Reserva used the finest aged tequilla as well as fresh squeezed lime. The color of the drink was a dark, burnt gold which was aided by the use of Grand Marnier. Also an excellent choice - maybe two of the best margaritas I have ever had.

We then dined at the hotel’s well known restaurant, Doc Marten’s, also a Taos institution. They are known for the Chili Relleno. While the appearance is second-to-none, the taste did not match. Don’t get me wrong, the flavor was good - better than average, but not the best. However, the crispy quail and lamb chops were damn good.

The Historic Taos Inn is highly recommended for a stay inside of Taos.

A Few More Photos

Allsup's Famous Beef & Bean Burrito. Allsup's is the best convenience store across the Southwest. And by best, I mean most reminiscent of the past. Americana convenience store. See Previous Post.

The cashier at Childress Bakery. Very cute.

I purchased this hat at the Weinzafpel General Store in Windthorst, TX. It was a great buy... Yeehaw.

Road Trip, Part 1: Texas to NM

Road Trippin’ Texas

Today, June 30th, 2009, my father and I departed from our home in Dallas, Texas bound for Seattle (where I begin work for Microsoft on July 13th). We are making the 2000+ mile trip by car. We are breaking it up over a week stopping in several destinations to fish, camp, hike, and relax. Not to mention, we will be eating and drinking well along the way.

The first leg of the trip took us West out of Dallas then North towards Amarillo and into Northern New Mexico

to Taos. Instead of following the typical highway route from Dallas to Wichita Falls along 287 and then to Amarillo, we decided to take smaller highways to avoid the monotony of highway driving and enjoy the small town culture of Texas. Along the way, we photographed dilapidated barns, ate BBQ, listened to country radio, and laughed a lot. Below are some of the highlights:


You Can’t Go Wrong With Texas-Made Donuts


As a kid, donuts were a staple of my diet - every Sunday morning, my mom took me to Southern Maid Donuts on Ferguson Road. There, I always ordered a dozen donuts, only able to finish a few. Pigs in a blanket, blueberry cake, buttermilk, donut holes… mmmm. To commemorate my departure from Texas, our first stop for coffee and breakfast was a small donut shop in ???, Texas.


I am convinced Texas has the best donuts around. We don’t do Dunkin here, we do mostly small independently owned shops (mostly by Asians, sorry to stereotype). Despite that each donut store might have unique ownership, the recipe is virtually identical. The same offerings, the same prices, the same setup, and even the same smell - much like the many different but similar dry cleaners or nail salons scattered about.



Rather than a dozen, we just ordered a few.


My all-time favorite donut: a buttermilk. Round with a whole, but crispier, thicker and notched like the crown of a king - one can’t go wrong with a plain buttermilk donut. Don’t forget pigs in a blanket (small sausages wrapped in fluffy dough then baked), donut holes, and the bear claw. Although this time we ordered coffee, Schepp’s chocolate milk in a paper carton is even better to accompany donuts. Make sure to bring the sugar rush full circle.


Small Town BBQ


For lunch, we found ourselves seated at Love’s Bar B Que and Steakhouse in Chillicothe. If you have never been to Chillicothe, well then, you have not missed much… except some damn good BBQ. Neither my dad nor I had heard of it or been there either, but judging by the look of Love’s corrugated metal structure, enticing signage, and optimal location in a small Texas town, we shrugged our shoulders and smiled - how bad could there brisket plate be?


We were not disappointed. We shared a three meat combo late -- the ribs and beef brisket stole the show, and the pulled pork was pretty damn good too. The brisket was moist, tender and perfectly seasoned like a good brisket should be. The ribs were dry rubbed and smoked to perfection. However, the best dish was their famous appetizer: the Texas Roll-Up. Beef brisket, jalapenos, onions, and spices rolled up in a thin dough and deep fried. Think Texas BBQ meets Chinese Egg Roll. Love’s BBQ makes its own barbecue sauce and a selection of spicy sauces to add extra flavor. If you ever found yourself between Wichita Falls and Amarillo, save some space and eat at Love’s.


Love’s Bar B Que & Steakhouse. HWY 287, Chillicothe, TX. 940.852.5400


After driving for a couple more hours, a coffee infusion was needed. We got exactly what we were looking for and more at the Childress Bakery in Childress, Texas. Fresh coffee and a damn good buttermilk stick (similar to the donut previous mentioned, but shaped more like a hot dog bun). The place was slammed and appeared to serve great sandwiches and potato soup as well. The funky décor also adds to the experience.


Childress Bakery, 1001 Ave F NW. Childress, TX 79201. 940.937.8711


We drover for a bit more until the next need struck: gas. After passing by the local filling stations of so many Texas towns, I couldn’t allow us to stop at the typical Exxon Mobil or Chevron. Rather, we found an Allsup’s Convenience Store and Gas Station (provided by Phillips 66) in Vega, Texas. Allsup’s is a classic service station with its own store branded goods and the best gas station snack around: The Famous Fried Beef & Bean Burrito. Their burrito is damn good, but also a surefire recipe for gas, indigestion and clogged arteries.



Interesting fact: Allsup’s branded convenience stores were born in Roswell, New Mexico. The founders were Lonnie and Barbara Allsup in 1956, at the time known as “Lonnie’s Drive In Grocery.” Allsup’s is a pioneer of selling cooked foods in convenience stores. www.Allsups.com. Locations Everywhere.


Finally, at 2 pm, after seven hours of driving, we crossed into New Mexico. The extra hour of driving - the relishing of the present at the expense of the future was well worth it. Why rush to get to a destination if that means losing all enjoying of the present? We took our time meandering through Texas. We stopped to take photos, sample foods, enjoy the peculiarities of a convenience store, and read about the German influence on Windthorst.

Gas stop.

Buttermilks on the right, bear claws on the left.

The Donut Shop. Can't go wrong with Texas Donuts.

The three meat combo plate at Love's Bar B Que - pulled pork, pork ribs, and brisket plus fried okra... mmmm delicious.

A real cowboy eating a Texas BBQ lunch, barbecue beef brisket sandwich, in Chilliclothe at Love's BBQ.

Try the buttermilk sticks at the Childress Bakery.

Allsup's Convenience Store.

Farewell Ghana

It has been an amazing five weeks here. My departure from this country is bittersweet.

The bitter: leaving a family I have grown exceptionally close to, the sad looks on my students' faces, the lifestyle, and a sense of purpose... just to name a few.

The sweet: the thought of unconditionally warm showers, feeling clean 99% of the time, my mom and dad, and starting my next journey in life.

I want to touch on one aspect of my time here that was so great: a lifestyle of purpose and peace. I worked, I use that term loosely, everyday from 8 am until 3 pm. Aside from those few hours at school, which were completely rewarding and far from a burden, I had no responsibility here for anyone or anything, except my own well-being. Not only did I have no responsibility, but I had absolutely no external pressure or accountability. Sure, I had to be at school, but noone was monitoring my progress, judging my abilities, or expecting anything from me. The only pressure I put on myself was internal and for my own good. All in all, my life was as stress-free as it comes.

This mental departure from my life in the US coupled with the relaxed Ghanaian pace of life resulted in a relaxation and sense of peace I have not felt before. However, the most beautiful aspect was that not only was I relaxed and rested (which can also be easily found at a beach resort), but I also had a strong sense of purpose. Not only was I feeling good, but I was doing good. I was accomplishing something with my time, and this served to further my already peaceful state of mind.

To conclude, I would highly recommend this experience to anyone with initiative, a sense of adventure, and free time. Feel free to contact me for more information. If your trip is anything like mine, I can assure you that you will not mind trading a few physical comforts for complete mental peace and purpose.

Best,

Mickey

Mr. Kukubor

Other Aliases: Master, Poppa Kuks, Father
Age: 50s or very early 60s… it is hard to tell with Africans. They age so well.
Education: University Educated as an Accountant
Current Employment: Headmaster of the Kukubor Preparatory School (20+ years)
Claims to Fame: Too many to recount them all… he once ran the entire private school system of Accra. Other highlights include being an all star athlete, running Ghana’s best school at one point, and being feared by all (the “Lion” of the neighborhood)
Favorite Food: A big ball of Akple with fresh tilapia in light tomato soup
Likes: Glory & Power, Apoteshie (Local Whiskey with Herbs to Promote Male Potency), Eating until he can’t breath, commanding his school, the current government administration, life, and all of his family (which he considers almost everyone he has ever met), cat meat (although he may be joking)
Dislikes: Rice (He claims, “It does not fill me up well!”), Ashanti People (his rival tribe from Ghana), the previous Ghanaian presidential administration, Nigerians, Men who are not gentlemen
Most Common Sayings: “I am eating my big ball. I ate my big ball and now it is in my stomach. I am so full I cannot breath.” and “We (his school children and family) will crush our enemies with health and success.”

Mr. Kukubor not only loves life, but he loves teaching others how to live life as well. And in my opinion, he does a damn good job of it - even though at times it seems humurous. A very patriarchal man, Mr. Kukubor overlooks his school, family, and neighborhood like the Godfather watches over his mob family: both with loving hugs and a swift backhand. And just like the Godfather, if deemed you worthy, Mr. Kukubor will quickly consider you part of the family and introduce you as sister, son, nephew, or niece despite, as in my case, lack of a true biological connection.

Mr. Kukubor also loves the idea of being on top: the man, the head honcho, the don, the king; however, you want to call it. Despite its current state of decay, he claims, and I believe him, that his school was once the best and he is determined to return it to his former glory… now only if he could get the funds to do so.

After getting more comfortable around us, he has really opened up -- sharing stories of his days as a sports stud, ladies’ man, passionate lover, and feared boxer and politico. He adores his wife and she certainly serves him well. Whether its due to his immobility from a disease in his foot, or simply his status, people bow to Mr. Kukubor and fulfill all of his demands readily.

Madame Kukubor

Aliases: Momma Kuk, Madame, Glady (In a high pitched voice by Mr. Kukubor)
Age: 44
Education: Catering (I believe she was trained at a technical school)
Current Employment: Domestic Housewife, Administrator of KUK Prep, Overseer of the snack bar, Teacher of domestic skills
Claims to Fame: Damn good cooking, the world’s second sweetest person (after my mother), ability to manage Mr. Kukubor’s constant demands
Best Dish: Rice with groundnut soup and fresh fish (see previous post for recipe)
Favorite Food: Whatever makes Joshua and I happy… which is anything but Akple and Fufu
Likes: Her one and only son, Cornelius; Making everyone happy, seeing Josh and I eat all of our food and ask for more, downtime, chit chat with the traveling vendors, watching after her flock (however you want to define that)
Dislikes: Dealing with her husband (I would assume), Letting Cornelius out of her sight, overly emotional children
Common Sayings: In a high pitched, drawn out voice, “Oooohhhhh thatssss sooo niiiccceee.”

There is no better way to describe Madame Kukubor than benevolent mother full of unconditional love and the desire to make her children (biological or not) happy, comfortable, and well nourished. A skillful multitasker, she wears many hats: cook, administrator, accountant, buyer, mother, and teacher.

Up at dawn and often the last to bed, I am yet to see her rest besides a couple quick naps during the day. Occasionally, I will bring her home some imported chocolate, fresh fruit, or nice veggies to cook --- to which she always exclaims, “Oooohhh thaaattt iss sooo niiiccce.” Her only son is Cornelius, and he is definitely a momma’s boy.

Cornelius Kukubor

Aliases: Corny
Age: 12
Education: Upper Level Primary at the Kukubor Prep School
Claims to Fame: Ability to juggle a soccer ball, ability to put up with his dad, good student, smile
Likes: Watching movies on his DVD player, the new e-mail address that Josh created for him, watching soccer matches with Josh, Poppa Kuks and I on the porch
Dislikes: Being asked if he likes girls

Cornelius is as innocent and uncorrupted as they come. Despite having a DVD player and being able to work a cell phone, his exposure to the world is minimal. Cornelius is a great kid with a deep respect for his parents - doing whatever they wish, whenever they ask. After initially being shy, he has opened up to Joshua and I. We took him for his first visit to the modern Accra shopping mall and Cinema. He was amazed not only with the size of the movie screen, comfy chairs, and bright colors, but also humorously by the automatic flush on the urinals in the men’s restroom.

Published on Friday, June 19

As you may have been able to tell from the comments on my blog, my letter to the editor regarding the word "Obruni" was published on Friday (Article can be found on the following post). It was carried by the "Daily Graphic" which is Ghana's largest and most well read newspaper. It circulates the entire country; therefore, quite a few people saw my article.

Furthermore, I have received a ton of response, mostly in the form of emails. While there have been a few critics, the majority have either praised or apologized (which I find unecessary... I was not seeking apologies) or have simply expressed thanks in presenting a new perspective on the word. One major theme running across many responses was that most people who use the word "Obruni" are not educated and/or literate; therefore, unfortunately they will not read the article. However, I was also told my article was discussed on the local radio so maybe they heard about it.

All in all, I am very positive about the impact of my letter. Whether or not everyone agrees with my sentiments, or feels I was justified in writing, the response I received from readers was telling. The topic definitely stirred the pot, got people thinking, and drew reaction - is that not what every opinion writer wants?

Finally, I am not surprised by the friendliness and hospitality that permeates each email. Most Ghanaian writers wished me well and hoped I had a fabulous stay. As I said in the article, and I hope was clear, I love the Ghanaian people, culture, and way of life. Its quite refreshing, albeit sometimes frustrating.

Below I have posted a few of the emails I received:

I just read your article in the daily’s entitled “oburoni” I just might understand how you feel when people call you by that name. Many a times I have traveled to U.K precisely in Leeds when some white guys shouted on top of their voices “Negro”, I felt so bad and ashamed that I wanted to hide then but there was no place. Just as you said about children doing so and is acceptable, I particular think that in this modern times that people travel all over the world, it just does not make sense when people of other races are called by funny names which they probably heard from their grandparents who were not civilized yet. Nobody choses their skin colour or race. I don’t know what exactly to say, but I felt like I should share your experiences of Ghanaian calling you name. What you suggested that Ghanaians should call you unfortunately will not be known to the people who call you as such because they don’t read the newspapers to get to these information. I hope you find a way to deal with this persisting problem.

One writer from Kumasi (a large city in Central Ghana) writes:

Hi Mike, I’ve just finished reading your article in my office in Kumasi. You are indeed right, judging from your perspective; however the latter part of the message is what most, if not all, Ghanaians (young and old) mean whenever the see a white man and call out that word (for your sake I won’t use it).To be honest with you, the word is not used for a white man only; any ‘fair colored’ person (even a Ghanaian) is referred to as ……. in the Akan dialect. One of my Uncles is called ‘Kofi Broni’. He is Kofi, because he was born on Friday and Broni, for being fair. Again, if someone wants to speak to a lady who is fair colored the one could easily say ….please sister broni… so so and so, (though informal) and the lady would not get hurt. It is probably the Ghanaian way of saying ‘friend’, ‘you’, ‘brother’ and the like, which is part of our way of expressing the hospitable culture.

In the organization where I work, several whites (Americans, Canadians, etc) come for internship and other programs. Presently there two white ladies and a guy; the guy and a lady come from America while the other lady is a British. We don’t usually use the word for them but they know that we call whites by that name.

For me, as I hope for several other Ghanaians your feeling could be a new thing and if it is so we would have to find a way to educate ourselves to put a stop to the use of the word for our fellow white people. Finally, I would want to say for now that if anyone uses the word it is for the purpose of expressing our usual Ghanaian hospitality.

From a fellow white man:

Mickey,

I read your article today in the Daily Graphic. I have been working in Ghana for more than two years and share exactly your thoughts. I am from Houston working with an investment group from Dallas. We are building a power plant in the far western region.

Thanks so much for voicing your thoughts openly and in the paper....

Another Ghanaian:

I just read you article in our national news paper the daily graphic of friday,19th june 2009 on page 9 unders Column LETTERS with keen interest and would like to commend you very much for educating some of us the miss use of the word OBURONI. well i remember beating up some children and shouting out to some Uneducated adult who even make the children to call a white person oburoni. I asked them to ask their relatives in America and else where that the white man or woman there kept calling them black man, blackman or woman etc. tis is very bad. I hope your article will find it way in other news papers in ghana. for more education on the miss used of word. educate people especially the Uneducated in the societies.. wish u da best am joseph.bye

A history lesson:
Dear Mickey,

I saw your letter in today's Graphic and I thought "Oh! Why are they givign
this white man a hard time?" I'm sorry that we, as Ghanaians have been rude or have seemed to be rude to a visitor. Perhaps you know that the word 'visitor" is used to describe a stranger, or foreigner in the Akan languages, which also produces 'Oburoni'.

But I wanted to make a short correction. Oburoni does not mean white man or woman, it means "person from beyond (or over?) the horizon". When Eurpeans first started coming to this part of Africa, their ships appeared from beyond the horizon. The verb 'buro' means to exceed, or to overflow. The word or the suffix 'ni' can be attached to a verb or a place, so that a Nigerian is referred to as Alata-ni, or an Ashanti as asanteni, etc etc.I am a very tall African woman. When I was much younger I spent a year in Kumasi studying for a Masters.

I was actually born and brought up there, but my family had left Kumasi when I was a child. Well, in the market n Kumasi, I was always called, 'Hey, oburoni'...this was done very seriously, not as a joke, because, well, obviously, I was not Ashanti, as I was so tall, so (to everyone) I must have come from beyond the horizon (only from as far as the Central region, of course).We are very poor in Ghana. People are generally happy, especially when given the chance to lambast one or the other political party, but we are very poor. During the period when we were colonized, or before, when the Europeans were just trading or mining, it was known that Europeans were always more affluent, better read, and with larger pockets. It is rude for children or people younger than you, to call after you like that, but we are losing the old ways, and are not as polite as we used to be. But children are generally intrigued by paler faces when they have never seen at close quarters skin, or hair like that (as I found out in Italy, when people would ask to touch my hair) and street traders probably call after you when they see you because you as a (European) tourist would be more likely to buy anything from them, than I would be.If people called you Oburoni Pete (rhymes with a bit with letter) now that would be different! But that's another story..........!!!

A wish you a belated Akwaaba, and I hope you enjoy the rest of your trip.

Adwoa

Don't Call Me Obruni!

The word "Obruni" in the local language means White Man. It is commonly used across Ghana to refer to me, and every other white person. It is not intended to be mean or disrespectful; however, I still find it unecessary and rude. Furthermore, it makes me (and many other white folks) uncomfortable and makes the Ghanaians seem ignorant. Overall, I feel it misrepresents their very warm culture and belies Ghanaian's friendly nature. The photo to the left shows my friend Josh, the Obruni, amongst locals on the bus... we definitely stand out.

I wrote the following paper to Ghana's daily newspaper, The Daily Graphic. I hope it is printed.

Dear Citizens of Ghana,

As a white volunteer from the United States, I would like to express my displeasure with the frequent and ill-mannered use of the word, Obruni. I believe the common use of Obruni misrepresents the warm and educated Ghanaian culture because it unintentionally makes foreigners uncomfortable and seems ignorant.

In my time as a volunteer teacher at a small school in Accra, not a day has passed in which I have not been called Obruni. Simply walking 100 meters from the school where I teach in Kwasheiman to the soda vendor on the street corner, I am catcalled “Obruni” multiple times for mostly no apparent reason. Cab drivers, Tigo vendors, tro-tro attendants, young children, and random loiterers call out, “Obruni! Obruni!” Why? Is there really a need to remind me that I am white? Am I really such a marvel or anomaly?

I understand that a child may call me Obruni. Children often lack the sensitivity , manners, and expressive abilities of mature adults. Children also copy the practices of older people around them. However, adults have no excuse. When an adult hollers “Obruni” and then speaks at me in local tongue, I become uncomfortable, frustrated, and, at times, angry. I think many white people who visit and live in Ghana feel similarly.

Furthermore, calling someone Obruni comes off as ignorant. Does the user of this term not have better words to express himself? Is pointing out the passing white man such a big deal? It seems to me that there are plenty of white men (as well as Asian, Middle Eastern, etc.) all over Ghana. Is there really a need to point out differences in skin color anyway? My white skin or your black skin is not what defines us.

If I did not know that Ghanaians are exceedingly nice people, I may think the use of the word, Obruni, is intended to make fun of or incense me. In some cases, it even seems hostile. Going for a jog through my neighborhood is much less enjoyable when everyone feels the need to call me out as Obruni. Walking at night on Oxford Street in Osu becomes unnerving when vendors, beggars, and street lingerers yell: OBRUNI!

Let us now consider the reverse. If a black man from Ghana, who was clearly a foreigner, came to the United States, I would never scream out, “Hey Black Man! Hey Black Man!” and then continue to speak at him quickly and loudly in my native language. Not only is that culturally insensitive and rude, but ignorant as if he was a zoo exhibit or phenomenon that I needed to point out to everyone around me.

I do understand that street vendors use Obruni as a marketing tactic to get my attention. Still, it disturbs me. I can think of a number of better alternatives. Call me Friend, Brother, Man, or Guy. Just not Obruni. I guarantee vendors will receive a much more positive response. In Mexico, vendors say “Amigo.” In China, they said “You!” In Morocco, I was “Friend!” and in Costa Rica they say “Brother!” While I may not have an interest in their wares, at least I am not offended by their calls.

Do not get me wrong, I do not believe that Ghanaians are typically rude, hostile, or ignorant. Matter of fact, I have never visited a country where the people were as hospitable, inquisitive, and friendly as they are in Ghana; much more so than the people I have met in China, India, South America, and Europe. At times, I feel safer here than I do in my hometown of Dallas, Texas. However, needless use of the word Obruni belies the true Ghanaian culture. Use of this term is a disservice to Ghana and should be stopped for everyone’s sake.

Sincerely,

Michael Ashmore
www.MickeyAshmore.com

Photos from Ghana

Flirting: Two of my JHS Students, Theresah and Prince, are having fun during class... aka flirting. Although my students are very conservative (boyfriends and girlfriends, no way!), they still flirt and have fun with each other. Today, I taught them the old song, "Prince and Theresah sitting in a tree. K-I-S-S-I-N-G. First comes love..." The song was a hit.

Vendors Out Front. These vendors are located directly in front of the Kukubor compound where we teach school and live. Our school is located on a main motorway that circles around Greater Accra.This motorway serves as a major commerce zone; therefore, stalls such as these line the motorway for miles selling everything from office furniture to auto parts to cleaning equipment to construction materials. Mr. Kukubor charges them monthly rent but claims they have not been paying lately.

Quiz Time. My JHS students are taking a math quiz. We have been studying factorization and polynomials. After almost two weeks of drilling, I think they finally got it!

The School Yard: The unfinished cinderblock structure is where upper level classes take place . Although bare, it provides shelter in which to conduct class away from the heat of the sun and free of the rainy season weather. Our headmaster has been saving money to finish the rooms, but he is struggling. Anyone want to donate? The yard, covered by a large mango tree, serves as playground, cafeteria, and assembly space.

Classroom Interior: This is where the second level of primary school is taught. The children are about 10 years old and, although cute, very frustrating to teach. The black board is cracked and full of holes, imagine the surface of the moon, making writing very difficult.

Bag My Water. The cheapest method of selling clean drinking water is by sealing it in plastic bags. A small bag, about 12-16 oz, sells for roughly 4 US cents. I prefer bottled water as the bagged water is not always "safe" for foreigners.

Theresah, one of my JHS students, shows off her Shito (pepper sauce) that she made with Mrs. Kukubor looking on proudly from behind. As an older female student, Theresah is expected to help cook and feed the students learning the ways of a domestic housewife. Shito is my favorite Ghanaian sauce made from finely ground shrimp paste, ginger, garlic, onion and hot chilies plus a touch of oil and salt. The taste reminds me of many pepper sauces found in east Asia - hot, gritty and slightly fishy... sounds gross but oh soo good!

The look says it all: Bart Simpson of Ghana. Don't let his cute smile fool you, he is a trouble maker, but cute as hell.

Smoked Tilapia is the main protein source for Ghanaians. We eat it with every meal except breakfast and I have grown to really like it. This tilapia comes in every other day from a vendor who lives in the Volta region. She smokes the fish so it can be preserved since cold storage is not common. The flavor is nice.

Can I Offer You Some Vegetables From My Head? Atop the head… the preferred method of carrying everthing and anything by Ghanaians. This woman comes on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday to sell fresh, and very tasty produce, to our family. She offers cabbage, carrots, bell peppers, green beans, and cucumbers. Interestingly, all the vegetables are much smaller than the genetically modified and artificially fertilized offerings in the United States.

Scientific Research, Internet Browsing, God v. Science Debates

First of all, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I do not think my brief time at KUK Prep School is best used regurgitating bland material from one poorly written text book. They can read about the “diversity of matter” on their own time: liquids, gases, and solids are not very fun to talk about anyway.

So, rather than teach from the book, I have asked each of my junior high science students to embark upon a scientific-based research project on the topic of his or her choice (although I have proposed a few ideas). I encouraged them to think outside the box - anything they want to research or learn about. In two weeks, they are all expected to present their findings to the class. Collaborative learning at its best.

Above Photo (From Left to Right): Betty, the sassy one; Sherifatu; quiet but smart and fun; Theresah, shy but loves to cook and really respects me; Prince, a walking, talking science book a.k.a, the know it all; and Roland, just a tall, lanky goof ball with a fun loving personality.

In assigning this project, I realize that my students have absolutely no access to research materials. This is something that dawned on me a few days ago when I asked my brightest student, Prince, to research diabetes as a homework assignment. He was only able to gather information by asking his parents and friends. Luckily, his father studied biology and was able to provide him with information.

What about a library? The closest, and I believe only, public library is in central Accra. And since our school is on the outskirts of the city, the library would be 45 minutes away by Taxi, and a much more time-intensive trip by Tro-Tro, which is a ten passenger van packed with at least fifteen people. Tro-Tros are privately owned, mildly regulated and they run specific routes all day long filling in for the lack of public transportation. Tro-Tros are very cheap (around .50 cents per ride), very uncomfortable, and far from efficient. However, given its price point, it is the chosen method of travel for most locals.

Any way, back onto my topic, the lack of resources that my students can access troubles me. Personally, as a middle school student, I took St. John’s Elementary School library completely for granted. If I had only known how lucky I was to have thousands of books at my finger tips, even though that meant painfully boring library classes instructing us in the use of card catalogs and the Dewey decimal system from the elderly Mrs. Johnson.

However, I would not let the lack of apparent resources stop my ambitions for a research project. Why should it? Internet cafes are plentiful enough, despite connection speeds that remind me of a 56k dial-up using AOL 3.0. However, none of my students had used the internet before; another skill that I will teach them. So, this afternoon we will begin our projects by starting at the internet café, learning to research, and gathering initial information. This research project will hopefully prove to be a dynamic learning experience in which they learn quite a few things:

1. How to use the internet properly
2. How to conduct research on the internet, including the best websites and validation + citing of sources
3. How to compile research on the computer
4. Creating a presentation to be printed and distributed to each student
5. New science topics
6. The value of independent research and information

Yes, this is definitely a lofty endeavor, but my students are excited. Obviously, internet time and printing costs money and my students do not have the funds to pay themselves. So, I have agreed to personally fund their expenses, which by Western standards is not so much, as long as they use the time and resources productively… no random browsing, no ESPN, no chat, no email. Luckily, they are not internet savvy (yet!) and will not know how to sneakily watch movies, read about soccer, and chat with girlfriends instead of researching their topics.

The next big question of course: what should we research?

This led to an interesting debate. Had anyone heard of evolution? No. The Big Bang Theory? No. Maybe you see can see where this is headed. As I mentioned earlier, Ghana is a very Christian society. All of my students are firm believers that the world was created by God and we are spawned from Adam & Eve. They have never been exposed to alternative viewpoints, theories, or ideas. When I told them I believed differently, they were flabbergasted. Prince immediately asked me, “So you do not think that God is making it rain outside right now?” (It was just starting to drizzle). I responded, “No, I believe the rain is caused by a scientific or chemical reaction. Not by God.” He laughed at me.

Don’t get me wrong. I have no intention of trying to push my views onto these students. I do not think they are incorrect in believing God created the world, nor do I think that is ignorant to believe so. I think there are many ways one can reconcile science and religion. And to do so; However, I do believe it is important to understand all different views, perspectives, and theories. After explaining this to them, they agreed and are very eager to understand and compare my “crazy, scientific ideas” to their own.

While not all of them will be researching hotly debated God v. Science topics, they will all be researching topics that interest them and are not taught in their tattered JHS Integrated Science Text Book. My five students will be focusing on the following five topics:

1. Evolution (Sherifatu)
2. The Big Bang Theory (Theresah)
3. Stars (Roland)
4. Planets (Prince)
5. Sustainability (Betty)

This afternoon, before we begin our research, I will have to give them a quick tutorial in web browsing and using the internet to research. They seem to be just as excited as I am to expand their knowledge, skill sets, and perspective. This is great!!!

I printed the following and gave it to Prince…

ev·o·lu·tion
(plural ev·o·lu·tions)
noun

1. biology theory of development from earlier forms: the theoretical process by which all species develop from earlier forms of
life.

According to this theory, natural variation in the genetic material of a population favors reproduction by some individuals more than others, so that over the generations all members of the population come to possess the favorable traits.

2. biology developmental process: the natural or artificially induced process by which new and different organisms develop as a result of changes in genetic material

3. gradual development: the gradual development of something into a more complex or better form
the evolution of democracy in Western Europe

Daily Life at the Kukobo House

Fresh Food Delivery. Every morning, from 7 am until 11 am or so, several vendors stop by the Kukobo compound. They arrive early. The Kukobo family has cultivated relationships over the years - the same women supplying the family’s food every day. This morning, for example, Akkos came with yams and onions from her vegetable farm. A second lady, with a baby on her back arrived with fruits and avocado and a third, she comes only weekly, brought oils and eggs. The vendor/customer relationship is very friendly and refreshing. As the Kukobos greet the vendors, laughs, smiles, and probably the day’s gossip and news passes between parties. Sometimes, several vendors arrive at once.

Just like the traveling vendors, most business is conducted informally and in small quantities. Shopping at super markets is mostly done by expats and wealthier Ghanaians.

At Home Services. Even the barber comes to house. I asked him to shave my very overgrown beard clean --- he did so with a razor blade sans shaving cream or water. It hurt a bit, but he managed to not cut me and leave my face extremely smooth and hair free.

In this photo, Cornelius has his hair cut by the barber on the Kukobo family porch.

Ghanaian Food 101

Banku. Fufu. Akple. Kenkey. Yams. Plantains. And hopefully some rice. These are the main basic starches and carbohydrates that are consumed daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner by locals. Banku and Akple are more or less the same. Made of fermented cassava and maize, the mush is formed into a distinct and pungent smelling ball or mound that is plopped plainly onto a plate While corn and cassava taste great, the fermentation adds a revolting flavor. Unfortunately, this is our homestay father’s favorite starch and he is determined that we learn to like it. Banku and Akple are meant to be eaten with a stew or sauce, which both masks the fermentation flavor and seaps into the Banku or Akple to give it better flavor (used like a sponge + pita bread).

“Eat your ball!” “Use your ball!” “Look, I am eating my big ball!” A dinner at the Kukobo house (our homestay) with banku or akple is entertaining to the least. The size of the ball of banku is determined by the size of the person eating. Naturally, our father gets the largest ball. To eat like a true Ghanaian, one would have to use your hands. Our father tears of portions of his “ball” and sloshes it in the stew sopping up flavors, juices, and a bit of vegetable such as okra (known here as okro stew). Personally, to tolerate the fermented flavor of Banku, I have to tear my ball into very, very small pieces dropping it into my stew to sponge up other spices asnd sauces. After a good 30 seconds of soaking, I remove the portion of banku with my spoon and quickly slurp down the mushy substance - trying my best to avoid prolonged contact with the taste buds on my tongue.

This is our father’s favorite dish. Therefore, it gives him great pleasure as I begrudgingly reduce the size of my ball. “You have too much ball left, Mike!” he notes. If I start to favor my stew with a spoon and no portion of Akple, he quickly notes, “You are not using your ball, Mike!” “Use the big ball.” Then, often, he will demonstrate - licking his fingers clean of sauce and fish while comparing the size and amount of his ball that has disappeared. “Look at my big ball … almost gone, Mike!”

“I cannot breathe, Mike.” he moans. “I have taken too much food.” “My stomach is now a big ball!” he laughs. The things that my home stay father say, and the manner in which he expresses himself, never cease to amuse me.

Of course, our father understands that Banku or Akple is not enjoyed by the typical western tongue. But I try my best to impress him.

Luckily for me, our home stay mother has taken note of our preferences. Our father has also Despite her husband’s dislike of rice, she still makes a small batch to satisfy her guests every evening. Like any good mother, she does not want her “child” to go hungry or unsatisfied.

The Ghanaian Staple: Red Tomato Stew/Sauce with Tilapia

The most common sauce or stew that we eat (almost daily, sometimes twice a day) is a tomato stew with tilapia. The main ingredients are freshly sautéed tomatoes and onions, tomato paste, oil, and smoked pieces of tilapia. This sauce is also the base for Okra Stew and a variety of other sauces. Abigail, a student who also prepares food at our school, taught me the following recipe:

Ingredients:

Several Fresh Tomatoes
One Large Onion
One large smoked tilapia (or fresh if you can find it)
Garlic
Tomato Paste
Oil (Palm Oil seems to be preferred here)
Ground Red Pepper
Chopped Whole Red Chili Peppers (these are very small, add for extra heat)
Onga Seasoning (a prepackaged blend of spices that comes in a sachet)
Maggi Seasoning (a prepackaged blend of spices that comes in a block with wrapper)
Water, equal to the can of tomato paste

Extras: okra, beans, and/or other vegetables

Instructions:

1. Sautee Chopped Onions and Tomatoes with Garlic in large pot on high heat (In Ghana, this typically means in a large iron pot over charcoals or fire)
2. After tomatoes and onions have softened, add a large can of fresh tomato paste plus more raw onions, chopped small red peppers, and tomatoes.
3. Fill up can with water (slightly dirty water is best… ha) and add to pot.
4. After water boils, then add seasonings and crushed red pepper. Allow to stew further
5. The stew should begin to resemble a basic tomato sauce.
6. Chop up the smoked tilapia and add (include bones, head, scales, etc.). You may no end up eating all parts of tilapia but it adds a very distinct flavor and is the main source of protein here. Meat and poultry are a luxury.
7. Let stew further until smells and appears satisfactory.

This stew can be served with Banku or Akple, Fufu, Rice, Yams and/or Plantains. Often, if finances permit, a boiled egg or scrambled egg is served alongside rice and stew.
I have eaten this meal almost everyday since I arrived. More photos coming shortly.

--- Breakfast ---

I eat breakfast every morning around 7:30 AM. It is served to me by Abigail, a girl who is enrolled in the school and helps out with the daily cooking at the school. Breakfast consists of the following:

1. NesCafe powder in a small can
2. Canned condensed cream (slightly brown colored and oh so tasty…)
3. Sugar Cubes
4. Boiling hot water in a thermos
5. Fresh Bread - bread is delivered every morning to the house by one of the Kukobo’s many vendors. I am not sure where she bakes the bread, but she carries it in a big basket upon her head. The bread here is wonderful. The bread is soft, spongy and mildly sweet - with the look of fluffy white rolls and the taste and texture of angel food cake, I love it!
6. I have also bought groundnut paste (a.k.a. peanut butter) to spread on the bread.

Conclusions:

Although the variety of food in Ghana seems limited, I do enjoy it. With the exception of Banku and Akple, most of the flavors are great. I have learned to appreciate the smoked tilapia and eat around the small bones and some of the skin - although the skin of the fish does not bother me.

I have been learning to like the food more and more - its really growing on me.

Movie Night with Kukobo Jr.

June 8, 2009 : Angels & Demons at the Accra Shopping Mall

His jaw dropped slightly as I demonstrated the automatic flush on the urinal, the automated sink, and the hand dryer in the bathroom. Cornelius, the son of the headmaster of our school and home stay family, had never been in a very modern bathroom before.

“There are so many colors and lights,” he remarked as we strolled the mall. “They have everything for sale here he continued.” Once we got into the theatre, he was equally enthralled by the beam of light from the cinema projector as he was by the movie itself. Realize though, that Cornelius is by no means ignorant or extremely poor. He comes from a middle-class family in Accra. He is 12-years-old and has attended school everyday of his life. He owns a DVD player, watches TV, and knows how to use a cell phone. However, one luxury that Cornelius had never enjoyed: a visit to Accra’s one and only modern shopping mall and new cinema. It was also my first visit.

We saw the new Angels & Demons starring Tom Hanks. Cornelius had seen trailers for the movie, and was excited at the proposition of joining us for a night out. His mother and father, after assuaging their fears of returning late on a school night (the movie ended at 10:45 pm), permitted him to join us.

The Accra Shopping Mall is very nice, even by Western/American standards. Although a tad small, the layout, finishes, and presentation of stores is 100% on par with something you would find in the United States. The Silverbird Cinema is also very nice. The mall is located out by the airport, which also happens to be the home of Accra’s wealthiest expats so it makes sense to position it there. For a Monday night, the mall was fairly crowded with a mixture of well-dressed Ghanaian locals and expats.

Taking Cornelius to the movie was a very eye-opening experience for me. I learned about his exposure to the world. He, like many Ghanaians, had never heard of Michael Jordan or Kobe Bryant. He had never heard of McDonalds and very rarely eats fast food. I am sure most of the plot from Angels & Demons was confusing - even most American 12-year-olds probably have trouble grasping the Papal Legacy.

I was even walking with a grown woman today down the street. She was directing me to a restaurant when I asked her, out of curiousity, if she had ever heard of McDonald's. She had not the faintest idea what I was talking about. Despite how "flat" the world seems, there are still islands, barriers, and isolated spots.

Over the course of the movie night, Cornelius became more and more comfortable and definitely enjoyed himself. To make sure the movie watching occasion was just right, we bought popcorn, candy and sodas. We introduced him to the Twix bar - which as expected, he thought was delightful.

I am glad to have exposed Cornelius to a taste of my life in the US- especially on more modest terms. I let him know --- if he ever gets a chance to visit, he obviously has a home.

No McDonalds in Ghana

After two weeks in Ghana, it hit me. There is no McDonalds here. Not only does Ghana lack (or benefit) the Big Mac, Ghana also lacks Kentucky Fried Chicken (vastly popular in Asia and the Middle East), Starbucks, Pizza Hut, Subway. Food services aside, with the exception of a Shell and Total gas station -Accra has absolutely no recognizable American brand companies much less many internationally recognized brands (besides a couple large banks).

So you'd think this is caused by a lack of income or inability to pay a few bucks for a burger. Yes, maybe. But I have had the opportunity (and joy) of sampling several local fast food joints (note: Fast Service in Ghana does not exist, orders take 15 to 20 minutes to arrive).

At Papaye, which has copied the McDonald's red and yellow, a huge roasted chicken outlet in Osu neighboorhood, a plate of chicken with rice costs between $4 and $8 (without a drink). The prices at other indoor fast food spots are comparable. Papaye is much more frequented by Ghanaians than expats.

Furthermore, I have visited McDonalds in many countries because I always enjoy the local variations of McD's meals: tandoori chicken sandwiches in India, McArabia in Morocco, Date Pies in Dubai, rice in Asia. I am sure they could find a way to make McDonald's appeal to the Ghanaian palate. They should probably just place a piece of fishy tilapia (scales, bones, and all) on top of the burger patties... Ghanaians love tilapia (and not the kind we eat at home, mom!).

So if the income is there, and people enjoy westernized food especially when its modified to appeal to local tastes, then why is there not a McDonald's?

My Opinion:

1. Lack of McDonald's quality food providers. Where can McDonald's get reliable beef, chicken, etc. that meets the company's quality standards?

2. Some sort of government protection or difficulty with approval

3. The economics just don't make sense

Your Thoughts Are Welcomed! Post a comment!

---- On a side note, below is a unofficial list of countries around the world without a McDonalds:

Afghanistan, Albania, Algeria, Angola, Antigua and Barbuda, Armenia, Bangladesh, Barbados, Belize, Benin, Bhutan, Bolivia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Botswana, Burkina Faso, Burma, Burundi, Cambodia, Cameroon, Cape Verde, Central African Republic, Chad, Comoros, Republic of the Congo, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Côte d'Ivoire, Djibouti, Dominica, East Timor, Equatorial Guinea, Eritrea, Ethiopia, the Federated States of Micronesia, Gabon, Gambia, the Ghana, Grenada, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Guyana, Haiti, the Holy See, Iran, Iraq, Jamaica, Kazakhstan, Kenya, Kiribati, Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Lesotho, Liberia, Libya, Madagascar, Malawi, Maldives, Mali, the Marshall Islands, Mauritania, Mongolia, Montenegro, Mozambique, Namibia, Nauru, Nepal, Niger, Nigeria, North Korea, Palau, Papua New Guinea, Rwanda, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Sao Tome and Principe, Senegal, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Solomon Islands, Somalia, Sudan, Swaziland, Syria, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Togo, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Tunisia, Turkmenistan, Tuvalu, Uganda, Uzbekistan, Vanuatu, Vietnam, Yemen, Zambia, and Zimbabwe.

Teaching How I Know Best

Today (Thursday, June 4, 2009), frustrated with the basic text books and the limitations of learning by simply memorizing and regurgitating facts, I decided to put my three JHS students to the test. We had just finished our second lesson about digestion and the science behind the consumption, absorption, and excretion of food and nutrients. The material was pretty complicated - enzymes, hormones, juices, and organs.



Photo Above: Prince and Theresah present about chocolate digestion. Both are 15-years-old.

Did my students understand the processes of digestion or simply memorize the terms? I was not sure. So, I produced a chocolate bar from my pocket, unwrapped the violet colored paper and foil, then ate it in front of my students. They smiled, but looked confused. I handed Betty the empty wrapper, which displayed the nutritional information about the bar.

I posed the question: “What just happened within my digestive system when I ate that piece of chocolate?”

They looked at me puzzled, and often they have trouble understanding my English. I repeated myself and continued, “You three have thirty minutes to study this chocolate bar and use your notes from class to create a presentation. The presentation must outline the entire digestive process as it relates to my consumption of this chocolate bar.”

If they did an excellent job I told them, I would buy them each a small bar of chocolate the next day. Although typically apathetic, Betty’s eyes lit up with excitement at the thought of chocolate. I did not plan to judge them lightly.

Thirty minutes later, I returned to the cinderblock skeleton posing as a classroom. Prince, the brightest of the group, jumped to his feet. The group had written the presentation word for word on a pad of paper.



Nervously, they recited the lines. The two girls held hands. Prince constantly corrected them over their shoulder. All three were fearful to make eye contact - often nervously laughing when I asked them to look up. Their presentation skills definitely need some work. I had asked them to divide up the presentation into even parts - clearly they had never been taught public speaking.


Despite a decent handle on the material; overall, I was fairly discouraged by their performance. The students injected little creativity or ownership in what they (and I) seemed to think was a very cool assignment.

I explained to them, “The most successful people in the word are communicators. You can know every single page of this science text book, but if you cannot communicate this knowledge effectively then it is almost worthless.” They nodded in agreement. I hope they understand.
This simple assignment has inspired me as a teacher to use the next three weeks to not only teach them science facts, but more importantly skills, confidence, and creativity. I will make them give presentations, think outside the box, and stretch their brains beyond memorization. They are all clearly smart and motivated. It is just a matter of showing them a different way.

For Monday, I have assigned each student a different topic to present on. In Friday's class, we spent the entire period discussing public speaking, techniques, and best practices. I presented about my life for them - hoping my abilities as a speaker could serve as an example for them to follow.

Any suggestions?

A Day in The Life of Mickey Ashmore, The Volunteer Teacher

Location: Greater Accra, Ghana
Accommodation: Homestay in Kwasheiman region (northwest of Greater Accra)
Job: Volunteer Teacher for Math & Science to Junior High Students
School: KUK Preparatory Private School (Primary through Junior High)

School Prayers (photo 1): Students lineup for morning prayers at 8 am before first period commences. Three full-time teachers manage the 25 or so students.

KUK Prep is run by the headmaster, Mr. Kukobo. A large, dominating figure, currently suffering from an infected, swollen foot which keeps him fairly immobile, he has been operating the school like the Godfather oversees his “family” for more than 20 years. He clearly cares about his pupils, but students address him as “Master” with a respect that he very much instills (and scares) into them - resembling the authoritarian principal rather than the benevolent figure I knew as a child.

The school is also where he resides with his wife, Momma Kukobo, and 14-year-old son, Cornelius. The school and its compound looks onto a large road that seems to always be busy. This road serves as a main highway (despite being only one lane in each direction) that circles Accra. Not unlike the rest of Accra (and Ghana), the roadside is a de facto marketplace. Anything can be purchased along the road. For example, vendors have rented space from Mr. Kukobo to setup large corrugated metal stalls selling housewares, office furniture, and electronics. Others have created small makeshift wooden stalls selling cooked food, soft drinks, or non-perishable food items such as canned beans, nuts, and canned meats. Directly across from our school, a collection of mechanics and autoshops sell parts from broken down buses, repair taxis, and mend tires.

If you travel about 15 minutes North along the road, passing through a hectic junction point, the area becomes more industrial. Heavy machinery, construction elements (gates, doors, windows) and just about anything else you need to build an office or structure can be purchased.

Despite being so close to a major road, the KUK compound is quite an oasis (relatively speaking). A thick cinderblock wall surrounds the grounds, with the main entry and exit (about 40 meters from the road) about as wide as two Honda Civics. The compound is very much unfinished. The home main complex (house and two classrooms) is constructed of concrete and cinderblock with corrugated metal roofs. The additional classrooms are only concrete frames - lacking proper walls and covered with scrap metal roofs. The chalkboards in each room are black colored plywood - warped and blemished - yet functional. Our father has complained that a lack of funding has kept him from finishing the school - hence the skeleton of a school where most classes take place. On the bright side; however, a lack of walls ensures a steady breeze in the classrooms. However, with the addition of more well-funded and; therefore, more attractive schools in the area, his enrollment is down from a peak of 300 students to only 25 to 45 depending on the day. At the current moment, many students cannot afford the tuition fees so the headmaster has been forced to send them home. Despite these hardships; however, he claims to be running one of the best schools in Ghana. From my perspective, this fact is very hard to tell.

School Cafeteria (Photo 2): Female students prepare and serve others at 10:15 am break. Desks and long tables are quickly assembled by the students every morning to create a "cafeteria."

I do not want to sound negative; however. Despite lackluster accommodations, the students really do shine. Every morning, Prince, a 15 year-old junior high student arrives an hour and a half before school at 6:30 AM to prepare. This morning, he was drawing a diagram of cellular structures - labeling the parts and describing each function. We had not learned that the day before and I could not find the material in his ragged paperback science book. “Where did you get this information” I asked, impressed by his initiative. He went on to explain that he met with other students from different schools around the neighborhood every evening at 7 pm. They exchanged notes, books, and materials - teaching each other new concepts and sharing knowledge. Sounds like WikiGhana if you ask me. Prince wants to be a doctor someday. He has a clear knack for school - especially math and science. Given the chance, I am sure he will go far.

In my short time here, I have come to a few conclusions. First, a lack of organization, accountability, and resources in the school renders much of the work done here ineffective. Students that do not want to learn and are not motivated will probably not grasp much. Unlike my experiences in a private school as a child, there are few safety nets to ensure kids are learning. When I teach, the students generally listen. As a white volunteer from the US, they seem very interested in learning from me. After each class period, the students make sure I know when there next math or science class takes place. They really do not want me to miss it.

So far, in my science class - I have been learning along with my students. Do you remember the names of the enzymes in the pancreas that aid in the digestion of proteins? What about the name of the enzyme in the stomach that breaks down milk based proteins (casein)? Well neither do I. So I have learned as my students have learned. Not only have I learned the material, but I have learned how to teach. I have decided that interactive teaching is best. I frequently call on students to teach each other. I ask them to demonstrate concepts, draw diagrams, and connect the academic and classroom worlds. To understand the complete digestion process, we discussed what we ate for dinner: Fufu, Okro (okra) Stew, and a small piece of chicken. What are the differences and how is that digested? Of course, to keep them even further engaged, I always try to bring in examples from my American life. What do Americans eat? PB&J. The concept of a sandwich was funny to them. What about rice, they asked.

So finally, how is a student’s progress measured? The government administers a test every April. Students must pass this test to move on to the next level. Mr. Kukobo claims a 100% pass rate so far. While I am not sure that is true, I have no doubt that motivated students do well. The hard part, like anywhere, is motivating students who lack basic learning resources such as pens, pencils, paper, and text books to take initiative and do the same. To be successful here, a student must truly have a thirst for knowledge and an understanding that education is empowerment. At the end of the day, the best I can do is inspire the students and serve as a role model. A month of teaching science is helpful, but not nearly as beneficial as the life skills and qualities I can instill in them.

Quick Comment, Select Photos

A group of fishermen mending the net after a day of hardwork. The photo was taken looking out from a bar with a screened window. Dixcove, Western Region.

The bay of Dixcove serves as a hub of fishing along the western coast of Ghana.

Boat building in Busua.

Hello All,

I arrived to my homestay in Accra on Monday, June 1. I am staying with the headmaster of the school and his family. Accomodations are basic and somewhat comfortable (no A/C and mosquitos make sleeping difficult).

I have just posted a lot of words about my week of traveling prior to arriving in Accra. I did not have internet access so I had to post a lot at once. I apologize. Below, I have also posted select photos. I apologize for the quality. Due to poor internet connection, I had to compress the photos thus sacrificing quality for practicality - spending an hour uploading one photo does not seem worthwhile.

If you would like a full (original) copy of any photo, please let me know and I can provide. The full-sized images are much better.

Enjoy. I will be posting about my homestay and teaching experience shortly.

Best,

Mickey

The Black Eagle

Written on May30, 2009

Black Eagle. With a name like that, dread locks, and a no joke Rastafarian soldier vibe, at first glance, its hard to take him seriously. However, he is proof of the adage to not judge a book by its cover. Educated in Accra, a successful businessmen, and an aspiring “hotelier” (on Ghana standards), Black Eagle is anything from the beach bum, pot head that I first suspected. Furthermore, he has proven to be one of the most reliable characters I have come across yet. Simply as a friend, he has driven me to and from the lodge to town, provided me with fresh fish and travel advice, and taught me about his way of life. If you can get past the fact his favorite adjective is “FuckShit” and understand is sometimes garbled, Rastafarian accent, one realizes you are dealing with a seriously intelligent and sophisticated man. He was universiy educated in Accra, has traveled the world, and is now opening a very cool lodge, which he calls Stone Village, in Busua. Working for the past two or three years, his lodge should be open by Christmas 2009. Tonight, he has invited us by for fresh grilled lobster, fish, and a bonfire party. If you get a chance to visit Busua, ask around for Black Eagle. You will not be disappointed.